Jewellery ErasGeorgian (1714-1830) Georgian jewellery was made during the reigns of the four English kings named George. In this period the jewellery was bespoke and handcrafted and tended to be smaller and lighter with clusters of gemstones, supported by pear shape drops. Short necklaces such as chokers and rivieres were very popular. Jewellers experimented with new gem cuts such as rose and table cuts. Gemstones were often mounted with enclosed backs and set over foil. Nature heavily influenced Georgian Jewellery with leaves, insects and birds often being depicted in various pieces. Victorian (1837-1900) The Victorian Jewellery period follows the reign of Queen Victoria and is inspired by her love for her husband, King Albert and her many children. The jewellery of this time has a very romantic, nationalistic and sentimental theme with dearest, regard and adore brooches and rings being adorned along with different types of jewellery pieces containing a lock of your loved ones hair. The Georgians love of nature is continued and reflected in Victorian jewellery with flowers and serpents crafted into various pieces. In addition to this, hearts and bows were also very popular symbols in jewellery at this time. With the expanding British Empire many more gemstones became readily available to the mass market such as garnets, amethysts, coral, turquoise and seed pearls. Queen Victoria adored opals and therefore the middle and upper classes that could afford such luxury also loved them. When diamonds were discovered in 1867 in South Africa, this dramatically increased the availability of the precious stone and this can be seen in the popular diamond jewellery, in particular diamond engagement rings, towards the latter part of the Victorian Period. During the Victorian period, many stones were set in silver and mounted or backed in yellow gold. This was the case for the majority of this period until platinum was discovered as a metal that could be used in jewellery towards the end of the 19th century. This breakthrough has revolutionised jewellery as we know it today. When King Albert died in 1861 Queen Victoria went into mourning for nearly ten years and wore black until her death. As a result of Victoria’s influence over the British public, mourning jewellery became very popular using any black material possible in jewellery but in particular Jet and Onyx. Art Nouveau (1890-1915)Art Nouveau means ‘New Art’ and derives from ‘La Maison De L’art Nouveau’, the Parisian gallery that featured designs by Rene Lalique and Louis C Tiffany. The style emerged at the end of the Victorian period and continued in the reign of King Edward the VII. It originated in France and proceeded to inspire other European Goldsmiths. It was based on the idea that it was the design of the jewellery that was important rather than the materials used. Anything to do with nature was inspirational such as wildlife, insect life, sea creatures (mythical and real), dragonflies and butterflies. When looking at jewellery from this period you can see the distinctive swirling lines, whiplash curves and flowing locks of hair that characterised the Art Nouveau style. Based on the idea that it was the design of the piece rather than the material it was made from, many semi-precious gemstones were used instead of the popular diamonds, sapphires, rubies and emeralds that were worn previously. Gemstones such as topaz, moonstone, peridot, chalcedony, aquamarine, demantoid garnet and amethyst incorporated with pastel swirling enamelling was very popular. Edwardian (1901-1914)The Edwardian period was a sign of refinement, new industries such as the motor vehicles industry meant that there was an increasing wealth and the jewellery of this time symbolised that. Jewellery was typically less ornate than that found in the Victorian period but instead it used simple lines with delicate settings. With the discovery of platinum came the new style of diamonds in a white metal setting, which is still extremely popular today.  Edward VII was crowned after the death of his mother, Queen Victoria, with Alexandra as his Queen in 1901. Alexandra was a trendsetter; she incorporated lace with silk and diamonds which was very popular with the upper classes. She wore feminine pieces of delicate platinum and diamonds in a light setting. A fashionable design was that of a bow, worn in various ways and most popularly set with diamonds. Jewellers were discovering new cuts of diamond all the time and baguette cut stones became particularly popular with a millegrain edge to allow ultimate light through to the stones. Furthermore lavish pendants were increasingly in demand with diamonds and pearls set in platinum. Pearls were now coming into Britain from all other the world which enabled the mass market to enjoy them.
Rings were particularly stylish at this time and upper class women wore many at one time. These delicate diamond rings, many of which were set in platinum, are very desirable in today’s market. Art Deco (1920-1935)The Art Deco jewellery period took its lead from the abstract and cubist movement that evolved during the time between the two world wars. It is named after the ‘Paris Exposition des Arts Decoratifs et Industries Modernes.’ Designs were bold and streamlined, with strong symmetry and geometrical shapes. It was not only jewellery design that was affected in this new and controversial period but also architecture with such buildings as the Chrysler Building built in 1930 in New York City. Jewellery from this period is easily identifiable with its strong bold straight lines, stepped edges and contrasting black and white colours. Onyx was often used to create these designs. Diamonds were very popular in jewellery pieces at this time, set in pave settings to make bold geometric patterns. Sapphires, rubies and emeralds were also commonly used as they gave bright and vibrant contrasts to the diamonds and onyx.  After World War One a new class of wealthy people emerged who had benefitted from the war and had an expendable income that they spent on fine jewellery. Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Tiffany & Co were leading design houses in this period creating beautiful long dangling earrings, flexible bracelets, dress clips and diamond watches.
New geometric and cubic diamond cuts, such as Emerald, Baguette and Trilliant cuts, were inspired by the advancing technology and gave a new modern look to jewellery. Platinum and white gold were the metal of choice for many designs as they added to the industrial look. Jewellery from the Art Deco period is highly prized in today’s jewellery market, in particular diamond cocktail and engagement rings. We are constantly dealing in jewellery and have an extensive stock of antique jewellery pieces, many of which are not listed on the site, therefore if you cannot find what you are looking for please do not hesitate to contact us via telephone 0800 043 3573 or email info@hattonjewels.com | 
