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Everything you need to know about Fancy Shape Engagement Rings

This week, we’re taking a glimpse into the wonderful glittering world of fancy shape engagement rings, from their inception right through to modern day styles and trends, and the celebrities that just can’t enough of them.

What are Fancy cut Diamonds?

When discussing diamonds, a “fancy shape” is anything other than round shaped diamond. Rounds diamonds are easier to cut, since all the facets in a tier are cut to the same angle and depth. They are usually cut on automated machines. On the other hand, fancy shapes must be cut by hand. Since this is extremely time consuming, “fancies” are primarily found in larger sizes.

Fancy cut diamonds can be split into three groups, the first are modified brilliant cuts such as; the oval, pear, heart, marquise, and trilliant shapes.

The second group are those with a step cut such as the Asscher cut engagement rings and emerald cut.

The last is the more recent mixed cut which refers to a combination of the previous two cuts.

Most popular Fancy Cut Shapes

Click to see this Vintage 0.60ct F VS1 Asscher Cut Diamond Cluster Ring

Asscher Cut Engagement rings

Extremely stylish, this shape brings an air of antique vintage. Striking and dramatic, the Asscher incorporates the 1920s-1930s Art Deco design style. Essentially a square Emerald Cut diamond, the Asscher too brings with it the cool elegance and mesmerizing clarity for which the emerald cut is so appreciated.

Created in 1902 by famous master cutter, Joseph Asscher, who was also the cutter of the famous Cullinan Diamond, this shape has retained its charm. With the recent fashion trend towards vintage and antique styles, this art deco piece maintains its popularity in the diamond world.

Oval Shaped Engagement Rings

The Oval Diamond is an elongated, brilliant cut, elliptical in shape and possessing a unique elegance and old world sophistication

One of its great benefits is its lengthening effect, while still retaining the “round look, making fingers look slenderer and longer. Another benefit is that the diamond look (when viewed face up from above) is usually bigger per carat weight, than other shapes. For example, an oval one carat diamond will look larger than a one carat princess cut of similar quality.

Pear Shaped Engagement Rings

Click here to see Pear Shape Single Stone 0.70ct DSI1 GIA

Envision a delicate drop of water, a single tear falling. The beautiful fluidity of the Pear Shaped diamond evokes delicate calm, with elegant sophistication.

Brilliant cut, usually with 58 facets to bring out its fire, the pear shape is a variant of the round brilliant cut and marquise shaped diamond, bringing the definitive point along with the soft round edges.

The Pear exhibits beautiful sparkle, but one should pay attention to the depth and proportions of this stone to avoid dark, dull “bow tie” patches across the centre, where the light does not properly travel.

Emerald cut Engagement Rings

Click here to see Emerald Cut Diamond Cluster Ring - 0.45ct 

The Emerald is a step cut diamond (like the Asscher Cut and Baguette Cut), the facets run across from each other to form what looks like steps, hence the name. Different to the brilliant cut, it has larger, triangular, rectangular diamond cut facets in the pavilion. The bigger and open table accentuates the Clarity of this shape, making this C a very important consideration for Emerald cuts.

Cushion Cut Engagement Rings

Click here to see Cushion Cut Cluster Ring 0.92ct

Due to the longevity of the cushion cut (it’s been appreciated for over a century!) this stone has a character which adapts and rejoices with the changes of time. Whether an antique cushion, or a modified Cushion, it is a shape which talks to the heart!

The cushion diamond is a square or rectangular shape with gently curved corners and a general softening along the edges. They may be square-like or with longer sides, similar to a rectangle.

The cushion diamond usually has the same amount of facets as a round and oval shape (up to 58 facets) giving it significant fire and brilliance.

The rules for the cushion cut are very loose, as it is a shape which has been adapted and evolved over many years, allowing for different versions of the cut.

We hope you've enjoyed our run-through of our favourite fancy shape engagement ring. If you'd like to see any of the rings shown here, just get in touch to book an appointment at our boutique Hatton Garden jewellers. 

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