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    The Evolution Of Diamond Cuts Over The Years

    How Diamond cuts have evolved over the years

    As tastes and technology have progressed with time, diamond cutting techniques have evolved from simple manual executions to dazzling, computer-aided complex designs that create stunning diamond engagement rings. This week, we’re looking at the evolution of Diamond cuts over the years, from its simple start as a point cut, to todays near-perfect brilliant cut diamonds.

    The Point Cut (14th Century)

    In the 14th century, diamonds were rarely used in jewellery and when they were, it was worn only by royalty. The most shape a stone polisher could hope for with a diamond during this age was to polish a rough stone into an octahedron shape, known as a point cut. This way, the stones natural octahedral facets could be tamed into a more symmetrical shape.

    Table and Single Cuts (15th Century)

    By the 15th century, the table cut emerged as the new diamond cutting technique and was achieved by sawing off slightly less than half of the top of an octahedron point, thus achieving a flat top, much like the flat top of a table. Soon after it became popular to create cuts on the four corners.  This style became known as the old single cut (or old eight cut).

    Even with these improved cutting techniques, the stones would still not be recognised by many today as “diamond” since a table cut diamond would often appear dark or black to the eye.  

    The Rose Cut (16th - 19th Century)

    By the 16th century tools had been invented that were better able to cut facets into diamonds and Rose cuts, which consisted of triangular facets cut in a symmetrical pattern across the top of the crown, but with the bottom of the stone being flat and having no pavilion, gained huge popularity. Rose cuts have more sparkle than other cuts at this time and often these diamonds were set in closed back settings.

    Old Mine Cut (18th - 19th Century)

    As we moved through the 18th century into the early and mid-Victorian era in the 19th century, the rose cut gave way to a new cut – the old mine cut, also known as a cushion cut, which became popular. The 18th century still saw only the wealthiest and the aristocracy wearing diamond jewellery, 

    Old European Cut (19th Century)

    In the late 19th century a diamond rush occurred after the discovery of diamond mines in Africa and diamond cutting became a major industry unto itself. The age of the industrial revolution; new diamond saws and jewellery tools allowed cutters to become much more precise with their work. Soon a new cut gained favour and was called the old European cut and had 58 sparkling facets.

    The Round Brilliant Cut and today’s popular diamond cuts (19th Century to Present Day)

    The early 1900’s ushered in the popularity of the round brilliant cut.  This modern cut became the ideal based on the fact that precise calculations were used to create a faceting pattern that allowed rays of light to enter and exit a stone for maximum fire and brilliance.  With the ability to now use modern machinery to aid in cutting diamonds, new shapes began to appear such as Asscher, Emerald and modern brilliants, becoming very popular during the Art Deco era.

    If you’re interested in visiting our showroom in the heart of Hatton Garden to see any of our diamond jewellery, simply book an appointment online, or give us a call on 0203 116 0069 and speak to one of our friendly, expert members of staff who can help guide you through any type of jewellery purchase.

    We’ve helped thousands of customers over the years design custom rings (with our design your engagement ring service), choose the perfect present for an anniversary, sell jewellery and choose jewellery for many special occasions, so if there is something you’d like but can’t see online, we’re confident we can make it to your exact needs, just get in touch.

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    Items that are manufactured from our Build Your Own Rings range are not eligible for a full refund however a life time credit note will be issued for the full value of the item. If the item you received was a special order for a non-standard ring size* or if you ordered a Bespoke Item made to order, we regret that it can only be able to return it to us if it is faulty, as it will have been specially made and cannot be resold. *Standard Rings Sizes - Ladies I - O, Gents L - V

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    However, you do have the option of returning items to us within 30 days of receipt for a full refund or exchange if you decide that the item is not right for you or the goods are faulty. We regret that we cannot offer refunds or exchanges on goods that have been worn, damaged or have had any alterations by a third party. Returned items can only be accepted if they are:

  • In the same condition they were received
  • With all original paperwork and documents
  • In the original packaging
  • Via the returns procedure detailed below
  • Failure to do so will result in the item being returned to you. Please complete the following procedure should you decide to make a return.
  • Call us on 0203 116 0069 or e-mail info@hattonjewels.com within 30 days from the receipt of your purchase. We will give you a unique authorisation code which you must write on the original invoice which you need to include in the package.

    Address your package to Hatton J Ltd, 5 Hatton Place, London, EC1N 8RU. For security reasons please do not write ‘Jewels’ anywhere on the outside of the package.

    Post the parcel using the Special Delivery service available at the post office. We recommend that you obtain proof of posting. We cannot be held responsible for any items that are lost in transit.

    Once your package has been received by Hatton Jewels Ltd it will be assessed to verify that the item has been returned in the original condition. Once verified a full refund or exchange will then be issued.


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    For items that are in stock we aim to deliver to you within 5-7 days. If we cannot deliver within the agreed time we will notify you immediately and with your agreement arrange an alternative date. Items listed under 'Express Delivery' are items which are currently in stock and can be delivered within 5-7 days. Depending on the rate at which the payment clears, we might be able to deliver it to you sooner.

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    Information on our website

    Whilst we make every attempt to ensure that our online catalogue is as accurate as possible errors can occur. Prices are subject to change without notice and will be confirmed upon receipt of your order. We may alter images for presentation purposes. Colour and size may vary slightly due to different monitors.

    If a product is not in stock and we are able to replicate it, this does not apply to antique pieces, Hatton Jewels guarantee the carat weight listed on the product as minimum and guarantee the same quality of gemstone, metal and workmanship for the order placed.

    Lifetime Warranty

    All Hatton Jewels handmade pieces come complete with a lifetime manufacturer’s warranty that covers any manufacturing defects and any necessary repair will be conducted free of charge under the following terms and conditions:

  • The item is identified by our production department as being defective as a result of a manufacturing default.
  • The item has not had any damage as a result of mishandling or Inappropriate impact (eg. knocks, dents or pressure), and has had no alteration, manipulation, repair or care by a service provider apart from ourselves or is the consequence of normal wear and tear.
  • Proof of purchase must be presented.
  • This does not apply on antique pieces or signed jewellery.
  • In order to ensure all stones are secure within your piece we advise having your piece checked by a jeweller at regular intervals.

    If purchased from ourselves even if not covered by guarantee we endeavour to resolve at the lowest price possible

    Repairs and Alterations

    All repairs on jewellery that has not been purchased through Hatton Jewels are completed at the customer’s risk. We will guarantee the specific work we complete for 1 year.


    If you have a complaint or concern please contact:

    Hatton Jewels Ltd

    5 Hatton Place
    EC1N 8RU
    Tel: 0203 116 0069
    e-mail : info@hattonjewels.com